----------------------------GENERAL INFORMATION-----------------------------

QUANTITIES will vary according to sales. Always verify quantities by contacting the nursery. All measurements listed are approximate averages. CALIPER is the diameter of the trunk measured in millimetres at 300mm above ground level. This gives an indication of how mature and therefore how well developed the branching is. HEIGHT (measured in metres) also records the graft standard where applicable. Please note that graft standards never alter in height as the tree matures, only in girth. Ultimate height will vary according to location. So described: a small tree may be approsimately between 2.0 and 7.0 metres; a medium hieght tree may approximately be 7.0 to 15 metres; a large tree will be greater than 15 metres. Tree stock leaves our nursery in good health. Please note that from that point on, the health of the tree(s) is no longer our responsibility. Follow the planting instructions to ensure the best start for your tree purchase. PRICE does not include GST nor delivery or planting.

-------------------------TREE PLANTING INSTRUCTIONS-------------------------

For best results excavate tree hole to at least 200mm wider and deeper than rootball. Always use good soil for planting.
Base of hole should be backfilled evenly with 200mm soil. Add water to base of tree hole before placing tree in. Tree hole should freely drain; newly planted trees cannot withstand long periods of root submersion in water.
Before placing tree in hole, check that hole depth is the same as the rootball. Trees should never be planted deeper than the top of rootball. Rootball should be damp.
Remove tree bag by slitting up the sides and peeling off; lean tree over to remove base. Gently roll tree into hole and orientate as desired. Ensure it is correctly aligned before backfilling.
Backfill in layers of 200mm, pressing firmly against rootball (ensuring there are no air pockets) and watering at regular intervals.
Once backfilling is complete, fashion a well for water as wide as the rootball around the tree. This helps allow water to pool over the rootball and be absorbed where it is required most. Water by filling the well.
Heavy mulching is highly recommended (approx 75mm) although this should not be laid directly against the tree trunk as this can cause bark damage. Mulch can be any material that keeps moisture in and helps to suppress weeds eg. stones, bark, wood chips, compost (but do not use fresh lawn clippings as these should be composted first). Weeds or grass should not be allowed in the well area until tree is well established (at least 2 years but up to 4 years).
A small handful of general slow release fertiliser (eg Osmocote) should be applied on top, around rootball, annually.
Trees should be staked. Size of branch/ wind sail area and exposure to winds will dictate type of staking. Generally, smaller trees will require 2 x 1.8m stakes with soft tree tie and larger grades will require triple wire staking with hose around trunk area and small stakes out from base. All staking needs to be checked from time to time, to make sure that is still effective and not harming the trees in any way. It varies when these need to be removed but if good growth occurs and site is not extremely windy, then removal could be done the year following planting.
Tree rootball should NEVER dry out but it should also never be continually soaking wet. An adequate watering system needs to be in place; automatic drip system is the most reliable but still needs to be regularly checked to make sure it hasn’t blocked up and it may need to be altered due to weather conditions (these systems need to be turned off and drained during winter when growth has stopped). Every site has differing soil and drainage conditions so it is difficult to give a general rule to suit all. The only advise is that if heavily mulched it is easier to keep the rootball damp. Manually checking soil conditions by scraping aside a small area of mulch above rootball is the best way to check soil dampness.
By adhering to the above advice you will enjoy your trees for many years to come.

-------------------------TREES FOR VARIOUS CONDITIONS-------------------------

NOTE: Soil, moisture and drainage conditions need to be adequate on all sites for trees to grow well. If these basic requirements are not met, tree stock may perform below expectations.


Abies (Fir), Alnus cordata (Italian Alder), Carpinus (Hornbeam), Cedrus (Cedars), Chamaecyparis, Fagus (English Beech) , Picea (Spruce), Platanus sp (Planes), Quercus (Oak), Sequoiadendron (Welllingtonia), Thuja, Tilea cordata (Small Leaved Lime), Ulmus (Elm).


Acer (Maple), Carpinus betulinus Fastigiata (Upright Hornbeam), Cornus Eddies White Wonder (Dogwood), Cotoneaster dammeri species, Gleditsia triacanthos Emerald Cascade (Weeping Honeylocust), Laburnum alpinum Pendula (Weeping Laburnum), Liriodendron tulifera Fastigiatum (Upright Tulip Tree), Malus floribunda (Japanese Crabapple), Malus profusion (Crabapple sp), Malus sieboldii Snowbright x (Crabapple sp), Malus tschonoskii (Crabapple sp, upright), Prunus Shimidsu Sakura (Flowering Cherry sp), Prunus subhirtella sp (Flowering Cherry sp), Prunus Ukon (Green Cherry), Robinia Moptop, Salix caprea Pendula (Kilmarnock Willow), Sorbus sp Ghose (Rowan sp), Thuja occidentalis Pyramidalis (Upright Thuja).


Prunus species (Flowering Cherries grown on a standard stem) are the obvious first choice but for longer term the following larger growing trees will also provide ample shade; Fagus (English Beech), Liquidamber, Magnolia sp, Platanus (Planes), Quercus (Oak), Tilea (Lime), Ulmus (Elm).


Note that until the rootball is properly established, any tree will not be able to withstand prolonged submersion. Provision of drainage will be necessary if location is excessively wet. The following are known to do well in more damp areas: Alnus sp (Alders), Liquidamber sp, Quercus palustris (Pin Oak), Salix sp (Willow).


NOTE: Autumn colours sometimes vary from season to season depending on the weather patterns. Also note that sometimes bright orange-red autumn shades are produced by trees that are under more stressful growing conditions. However the following trees generally always give bright orange-red autumn tints that this area is renowned for; Acer sp (Maple), Cornus sp (Dogwood), Fraxinus oxycarpa Raywood (Claret Ash), Liquidamber, Malus trilobata (Flowering Crabapple), Prunus sp generally all produce orange-red shades, Quercus palustris (Pin Oak), Quercus ellipsoidalis (Northern Pin Oak), Quercus rubra Maxima (Red Oak), Sorbus sp Ghose (Rowan tree variety)


Alnus sp (Alders), Betula sp (Birch), Carpinus sp (Hornbeam), Fagus sp (English Beech), Fraxinus sp (Ash), Gleditsia sp (Honeylocust), most of the Malus sp (Crabapples), Platanus (Planes), most of the Quercus sp (Oak), Robinia sp, Salix sp (willow), Tilea sp (Lime), Ulmus sp (Elm).


Acer capillipes (Snakebark Maple) - bark; Alnus cordata (Italian Alder) – cone-like seed; Betula utilis Jacquemontii (Sweet Birch) – white trunk; most of the Malus species (Flowering Crabapples) plus Sorbus sp Ghose (Rowan variety)- have fruit into the winter months; Platanus species (Planes) – bark and seed; Prunus subhirtella autumnalis Southern Gem (Flowering Cherry) – produces sporadic blossom; Pyrus ussuriensis (Mongolian Pear) – hangs onto its leaves well into winter; plus all the evergreen varieties; Cedrus (Cedar); Cotoneaster; Magnolia; Picea (Spruce); Sequoiadendron (Wellingtonia); Thuja.


Cedrus atlantica Aurea (Golden Atlantic Cedar) – golden foliage highlights; Cedrus atlantica Glauca (Blue Cedar) – blue-green foliage; Cedrus deodara Aurea (Golden Deodar Cedar) – golden foliage; Magnolia grandifolia – summer flowering; Prunus cerasifera Nigra (Purple Leaved Plum) – purple foliage; Prunus virginiana Shiraz – purple foliage; Tilea cordata (Lime) – summer flowering; Tilea tomentosa Orbicularis (Silver Lime variety) – silver grey undersides to foliage; Ulmus procera Louis van Houtte (Golden Elm) – lime green and gold foliage.